Monday, November 28, 2011

These Are A Few of My Favorite Things....That I'm REALLY Missing

Apart from the obvious homesickness and missing family and friends, there are some things that I find myself missing on a daily basis.  Large or small, based on infrastructure or just something that reminds me of home, here is a list (in no particular order) of things that I'm really missing.

1.  Sidewalks
You would think that they exist everywhere, but they don't.  Because so many people walk everywhere one would think sidewalks would be common (or at least a shoulder on the road).  That, my friends, is not the case.  Walking is treacherous at best and a death trap at worst.  Plus, now with the rainy season, people are trying to avoid the major puddles and think nothing of jumping right onto the street.  Needless to say, Ruby-dog and I don't walk in the city; only on the country roads (which are mud pits now).  My friend, Gina, says that the next president could probably win the election based solely on the "Sidewalk Platform." I have to say that I agree.



2.  New Seasons Market

'Nuff said.


3.  Cottage Cheese
What can I say?  I love the stuff and it's not available here.  Well--funny story--technically it is available here, but it's imported from South Africa and is whipped.  And flavored.   However, being the daring sort, I bought some of said cottage cheese without fully understanding what it meant.  Basically, and I did not know this at the time, Biltong is South African beef jerky.  Now combine that flavor with cottage cheese and whip it up and basically you have some sort of weird meat-flavored cheese spread.  Not delicious. 



4.  Roads with Clearly Painted Lines
Again, this is pretty obvious.  Driving here stinks.  There are no sidewalks, no shoulders, major potholes,  tons of pedestrians, tons of bikes (who obviously don't have reflective gear or lights of any sort to speak of), no street lights, heavy rains, and crazy drivers--especially the blue buses which is a post for later.  Combine all these factors with the fact that there are absolutely zero painted lines on the roads (marking the center line or side of the road, etc.), and every time you leave the house you say a little offering to the gods, in the hopes that you make it there safely.  



5.  North Bar, Pub Trivia Mondays in particular
What can I say?  Pub Trivia Monday nights with the fella's was a weekly tradition that went on for years. It just got the week started off "right."  Seth, Quiz Master Extraordinaire, found the balance between really tough, obscure questions, awesome picture pages, and special video clues.  Plus, I got to guest host once, which was brilliant!  Anyway, I really miss it.



6.  Yoga Union
The best yoga studio within walking distance of my house?  Yes, please.  I've been attending Yoga Union since I moved to Portland in 2006 and boy, do I miss it.  The Yin and Unity Flow classes kept me happy, at peace (sometimes when the world was a shitshow otherwise), and "centered" (for lack of a better word).  Plus, instructor Todd was wicked hot.  :)



7.  Recycling
Ummm.....yeah.  It doesn't really exist here yet.  Coming from Portland, where everything is recycled, I feel like my soul dies a little bit each time I throw away a plastic bottle or tin can or glass jar.  AISL just started paper recycling, but there's nothing yet to recycle other "recyclables."  Boo.  



8.  Good Beer (and Wine)
Good beer doesn't exist here.  The two local beers, Castle and Mosi, are basically like Coors Light.  I wouldn't even do them the honor of being PBR or High Life quality.  I was able to covertly buy a 12-pack of Fat Tire at the US Embassy Commissary store, before they realized that I was a teacher, but now I can't buy any beer/wine/booze there.  Has something to do with what embassy privileges are awarded to whom and, obviously, teachers rank near the bottom of the totem pole.  So far, I've had one beer and I'm hoarding the rest of them.  I guess I'll be able to have 1/month and that will last me until next year.



9. Walkability/Rideability
The favorite places I've lived (Portland and Chicago, though Walla Walla ranks high as well) have all been very walkable.  Or, if not very walkable, very easy to navigate using public transportation.  Public transport is pretty much non-existent here (unless you take a blue bus--aka "death on wheels").  So, I have to drive.  Everywhere.  Because of the aforementioned issues with walking or biking, driving is the only option, which sucks.  I miss being able to walk to too many bars, cafes, and coffee shops to count, to four movie theaters (all of them cheap seat/brew n' views), four major grocery stores (Fred Meyers, New Seasons, Zupans, and QFC), two of the best parks in town, etc.  However, perhaps the biggest downer is that my daily walk with Ruby consists of going up and down our road.  There are no loops or neighborhoods here, and everything is fenced off.  I could go in the bush but nothankyou with so many snakes around (in the last month I've known three people who have found cobras, puff adders, or green mambas on their property/in their houses.  I'm not going to push my luck!).  



10.  Coffee Shops (that aren't big, chain coffee shops, though at this point I might give my pinky finger for a Starbucks)
Not surprisingly, there's no "coffee shop culture" here.  I have found one pretty good coffee shop in the mall about 35 minutes' drive away.  So, because I hate malls, I've been there once.  What I would give for a nice, foamy latte from Albina Press right about now.



11.  Underdog Sports League, specifically volleyball and AMERICAN football (not soccer)
Team sports as an adult; what a novel concept.  Growing up, I thought that after Intramurals in college, the only sport I'd be able to play would be tennis.  Luckily, I discovered Underdog and have had so much fun over the last 5 years playing with them.  American Football is unheard of here (though I think for my next After School Activity, I'm going to try to organize it) and I miss playing with I Touchdown There so so so much!  It was my Sunday tradition; now my Sunday tradition is Ultimate frisbee.  A fine replacement, but still the glory and camaraderie of ITDT isn't there. 



12.  Being Able to See Peoples' Houses/Feeling of Neighborhoods
Everything here is behind a wall (usually topped with barbed wire and/or broken glass embedded into cement on top).  These walls average 10-15 feet tall and I have no idea what goes on behind them.  Homes, businesses, hospitals, etc...virtually everything is behind a wall.  As such, it's very disorientating; I am constantly lost because everything looks the same.  Probably because it is the same: one big concrete wall.  Even my house is "protected" with a giant wall on all sides.  

In order to get into my own house, I have to honk when I get to the driveway and my guard (24/7) lets me in.  My guards, Emmanuel and Frank, work 12 hour shifts, 6 days per week.  The day shift goes from 6:00 am-6:00 pm and then the night guard comes on for the other 6-6 shift.  Once per week, they have to work doubles (when they switch from the day shift to the night shift).  Other than the fact that it has to be the most boring job ever, they work such long hours and get paid (by the school, who pays for all security for the teachers) a bit more than $100 per month.  

There are obviously a ton of factors that play into the community infrastructure, but I greatly miss walking around the ole 'hood (especially at night when I could see how cutely decorated the houses are).  



13.  Ruby-Dog Services
Let's just say that over 100 pounds of my 500 pound shipping allotment went to Ruby's treats and food.  I wasn't sure what I'd be able to buy here (not much it turns out, so it was a smart move to bring tons of food, treats, and toys).  Regardless, I (and I'm sure Ruby-dog does, too) miss Portland Pet Supply and Mt. Tabor Vet Clinic.  The Wunguriyran's and Drs. Sulis and Bussmann took such great care of Ruby and Gus over the years.




Anyway, that's it for now...the "short list" of what I miss the most about life in Portland/the Northwest.  I'm sure I'll be adding to this as time goes on.  

Sunday, November 27, 2011

South Luangwa National Park--SAFARI TIME (or to quote LM, "You Can't Make This Sh$& Up"

First, dear readers, let me apologize for being woefully behind on my blog posts.  Other than being ridiculously busy and having spotty internet, there's no excuse.  My New Year's Resolution (come a month early) is to post at least once a week.  While the big trips and events are obviously noteworthy, the mundane day-to-day posts are what will really paint a better picture of Zambia for you.  However, this will not be one of those posts--this post is going to talk about the most amazing trip ever--our Grand Adventure to South Luangwa for the October Break.  (I can write mundane next week, I suppose).

So, at AISL we're lucky to have an October break; this year it was 5 days and "The Crew" (my buddies here) and I decided to go to South Luangwa National Park which is world-renown for it's amazing wildlife.    As there were 6 of us going, we thought it wisest (and cheapest) to rent a car/driver for the trip (at $110/day as opposed to the round-trip ProFlight flight which would have cost ~$550).  Anyway, divided by 6, the long drive (it's supposed to be ~9-10 hours) was worth the cost.

So we hired a van driven by Kennedy, our driver.

Anyway, this shot was taken just after it broke down (about 5:30 pm) halfway between Lusaka and our destination for the night--Chipata.  We were stranded by the road next to Peter's Village (a small traditional village with no electricity).  Luckily, the village head, Chief Joseph, was very friendly and helpful and brought out a wicker/rattan mat thing for us to sleep on.  Long story short, we were kept warm by cuddling on the roof and the bottles of booze we brought for the trip; entertained by shooting stars and goofy stories; and were finally "resuced" at about 1:00 am by the replacement van.  We almost ran out of gas two times and got a flat tire as we limped into the park (not a good place to change a tire with lots of wild animals roaming around), but we finally made it to Mfuwe Lodge.

The next four days were filled with adventures, delicious food, the most knowledgable guide ever (seriously--how did Fannuel spot some of those things??),  amazing animal and birdwatching, games, "sundowners" (my new favorite thing--cocktails as the sun sets), and memories with great friends.  Highlights included getting quasi-charged by an elephant, coming upon a lion kill (water buffalo), having 2 lions walk THISCLOSE to the van (and me, by proxy).  I cannot wait to go back with Mom and Pop Cline when they come visit in December.  Though, this time, we're flying.  :)

Below are some shots of the safari, which was, honestly, the vacation I've been dreaming about since I was a little girl.

A giraffe with birds eating the fleas and ticks on it's back.


Gorgeous sunset over the (very low) river.


Kudu (I think):

My favorite African birds thus far, Carmine Bee-Eaters:



Our "rig:"  Of great importance is the roof which provides shade in the midst of the hot, hot days (it was roasting by 9 am and the twice daily game drives; from 6:30-11:30 and from 4-8, while awesome would have been unbearable without the shade).  I was told one day it got to 45+ degrees Celsius (that's 113).  Regardless, it was very, very hot.  Sadly, not all tour companies provided sunshaded Land Rovers and, boy, did we feel sorry for those suckers.


We did a lot of silly jump shots.


Male lion, VERYCLOSEUP.  He'd just brought down a water buffalo, so he wasn't hungry, luckily.  You can notice the blood in his mane.  Also, I learned that lions are only successful about 30% of the time (when hunting). 



Then, we saw the same pride later in the day, lounging by the river.  A kudu attracted their attention and they walked right beside our vehicle to go check it out.  Amazing and scary.  This picture is taken with ZERO zoom; he's just walking by the side of our truck. 



The pride, lounging by the banks of the river...probably digesting their water buffalo feast.



Beautiful African sunset.  If you notice all the stumps/deforestation, it's caused by elephants.  When a large herd comes into an area, they can cause major damage.  This damage is pretty much irreparable and the landscape is forever scarred. 



Right before the elephant "charged" our car.  Scary!




Galloping zebras.  Incidentally, a herd of zebras is actually called a "dazzle."  One wouldn't think that black and white strips would be much of a natural defense against predators, but in a large group they 'dazzle' their predators (thus the name).  Apparently, it's a natural optical illusion and the stripes cause their predators to misjudge distances and causes problems with depth perception, which enables the zebras to escape.  Strength in numbers, eh?!?



Super posh lodging at Kapamba Bush Camp (a sister company of Mfuwe lodge).  



Included in the bush camp stay was a walking safari...we strolled through the dry river bed and "walked" with giraffes and a herd of water buffalo.



The gang on the walking safari.  There was hyena urine in the skull (which dripped on my head).  Super gross and super stinky!



Baobab tree; one of Africa's treasures.